Published: January 30, 2006 11:08 am            

Martino's Italian Villa

A touch of the old world

The authentic tastes of Italy are alive and well in the heart of Kokomo. Lovers of this fine cuisine from the boot of the Mediterranean region can find all their favorites from lasagna to veal cutlet ala parmigiano, covered in a fresh pasta sauce at Martino's Italian Villa Restaurant and Lounge, 1929 N. Washington St. (MAP)

Angela and the late Frank Martino, who immigrated from Italy in 1947, established the restaurant in its current location 33 years ago.

With them came their home-style cooking and a desire to offer Kokomoans a bit of their homeland's best-known tradition -- eating.

"I don't use exact recipes," said Angela, who remains a daily fixture in the restaurant's kitchen.

"Everything is in my head, and I just know how much of something to use."

Her son, Mike, also cooks and helps manage the restaurant. His specialty is the eatery's signature soup, a richly flavored beef minestrone chock full of beef and veggies and various pastas such as ditilini or farfalle.

The restaurant also is known for its homemade pizza and sandwiches offered in-house or for carry-out.

Before establishing Martino's, which can seat up to 300, Angela said they started a doughnut and short-order restaurant at Philips and Jackson streets in 1962. It only sat about 20 customers at a time.

Martino's offers not only traditional recipes, but a taste of Italian ambiance. The walls are covered with murals of Italian countrysides. Chandeliers radiate a soft glow and the fountains provide a soothing background.

Diners can choose from a variety of dishes ranging in price from $9 for spaghetti to the Martino special pasta sampler for about $12.

Other specialties include chicken parmigiana, chicken cacciatore, and my favorite, cheese-filled manicotti.

The tender pasta pipes stuffed with a special blend of ricotta and romano cheeses and flavored with special herbs, are hearty yet delicate.

The sauce, one of the best I've had dining out, is a delectable blend of garlic and basil, but no oregano, which can be overbearing.

Angela said she uses only the best ingredients for her sauce, including Hunts tomato products.

Sauces are offered plain, with meatballs or with Italian sausage.

Each entre includes soup, salad and freshly made garlic bread.

On a recent trip to Martino's, my husband chose his favorite, chicken parmigiana, and found it "tender and juicy with a light breading and smothered in just the right amount of melted cheese and sauce."

Known for his persnickitiness, he graded the service "just right -- attentive, but not intrusive."

For meat and seafood lovers, a variety of steaks and fish are available and reasonably priced from $10 to $16. Steak dinners include the soup, salad, small pasta, choice of potato and garlic bread.

The wine list features the house wine, a sweet Oliver Soft Red, and other reds, whites and roses. Pre-dinner drinks can be shared in a cozy bar, where you also can eat if you like.

If, after the generous portions, you still have some room left, there are some delicate desserts such as spumoni, vanilla ice cream or cheesecake to top off the meal.

If you're just dropping by for lunch, you can choose sandwiches from the grill or from the pizza parlor.

Martino's also caters luncheons, banquets and special parties; and all of its menu items are available for carry-out.

        

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