China Lane

By ERIN SHULTZ
[friday] editor

February 16, 2006 10:15 pm

— Just a little way up the road from Kokomo sits China Lane, one of Logansport’s best-kept secrets — and an authentic Chinese restaurant well worth the trip.
There’s no buffet — a shocking statement for some to read, because Kokomo seems to have 6,493 Chinese buffets — and its dozen or so tables are cozy and dimly lit.
Refreshingly simple, it’s a family-owned business, and it feels like one. The restaurant is intimate, and the recipes are all family recipes passed from generation to generation.
“We do a lot of neighborhood business,” said co-owner Kan Lee. “Everybody is just like my friend now.”
Lee and her husband, Boon — who everybody calls Joe — moved to Logansport from Chicago about 20 years ago. She said they’ve been there for a long time, as a favorite lunch and dinner spot for the locals.
And while Logansport may consider China Lane its hidden treasure, Lee said, others are finding out about the place. Lee said more and more, she’s serving people who have driven all the way from Indianapolis, Lafayette and Kokomo for the food.
Once you taste it, you’ll understand why.
Sure, they serve a mean General Tso’s chicken or beef and broccoli — so they’ve got all the traditional staples — but they’ve also got interesting combinations such Mongolian beef, a combination of tender beef with bamboo shoots, green peppers, onions and a fiery sauce.
The restaurant also specializes in combination plates. One of my favorites is the egg roll, barbecue pork and pineapple chicken roll plate.
Looking for something a bit more healthy? They’ve also got a light and healthy menu with steamed vegetables, rice and meats.
“Not much oil and not much sodium,” said Lee. “It’s a really light flavor, but we use a lot of garlic.”
She said she highly recommends the chicken with vegetables.
My co-worker Addie, who first brought me to China Lane, swears by their China Lane Special Lo Mien. She’s actually ordered that dish nearly every time she went there since she was 6 years old. Loaded with chicken, shrimp and barbecue pork, this lo mien is more than a meal. She barely made a dent in it and took what looked like 17 pounds of noodles home.
We went with photographer Shawn Knapp and his wife, Carla, who often split a dish and still have extras to take home. Beat that, buffets.
Make sure you try their homemade egg rolls. Lots of shredded veggies and shrimp, all rolled in a crispy wrapper and fried. There are few things better in life. [ f]
Erin Shultz may be reached at
(765) 454-8587 or via e-mail at erin.shultz@kokomotribune.com.